New Tank Setup

Decide what you want to keep before you buy anything. The fish you choose determine the tank size, filter strength, heater size and even the substrate.

Questions to answer first

• What type of fish? (community, cichlids, nano, shrimp, etc.)
• How large will they be as adults?
• What temperature do they need?
• Do they prefer soft or hard water?
• Do they dig, graze plants, or need hiding spaces?

Basic equipment checklist

• Tank with stand or safe surface
• Filter with suitable flow and media
• Heater (if tropical)
• Thermometer
• Substrate (sand, gravel or soil)
• Hardscape (rocks, wood, decorations)
• Water conditioner (dechlorinator)
• Liquid test kit (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
• Net, siphon and buckets or hose for water changes

Not all substrates should be rinsed (active plant soils often shouldn’t), so always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Substrate basics

• Rinse inert sand and gravel until the water runs mostly clear.
• Create a slight slope from back (deeper) to front (shallower) for depth.
• Use plant soil under a sand cap if you plan a heavily planted tank.
• Keep areas open at the front for viewing and feeding.

Hardscape tips (wood & rock)

• Pre-soak driftwood to reduce tannins and make it sink.
• Use aquarium-safe rocks; avoid anything that fizzes in vinegar (it may alter hardness).
• Build stable structures – no wobbling rocks that can collapse later.
• Leave space for cleaning and for fish to swim freely.
• Think in layers: foreground, midground, background.

Fill gently to avoid blasting your new layout apart.

Safe filling

• Place a plate, plastic bag or your hand on the substrate and pour water onto that to reduce disturbance.
• Use cold + hot tap mix, or cold tap plus heater, but never straight hot tap only.
• Add a water conditioner that removes chlorine/chloramine according to the bottle.
• Check for leaks before leaving the tank alone.

Install filter & heater

• Position the filter so it circulates water across the whole tank.
• Use the right media order: mechanical first, then biological, then chemical (if used).
• Set the heater to your target temperature and place it where flow passes over it.
• Run all equipment 24/7 – filters should never be turned off except briefly for maintenance.

Live plants help absorb nutrients, compete with algae and make the tank look more natural.

Planting pointers

• Mist plants and hardscape with a spray bottle while planting so nothing dries out.
• Place tall stems and Vallisneria at the back, mid-height plants in the middle, and low carpets or crypts at the front.
• Attach epiphytes (Anubias, Java fern, Buce) to wood and rock rather than burying rhizomes.
• Keep some open swimming space – don’t fill every inch.

5. Start the nitrogen cycle

• Add a source of ammonia (bottled ammonia or fish food) to begin feeding bacteria.
• Use a liquid test kit to monitor ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
• Most tanks take 2–6 weeks to fully cycle.
• For the detailed process and troubleshooting, use the nitrogen cycle guide linked above.